Solid Hard Wood flooring looks great in any home, and it can add to the value of your house. If you haven’t prepped your floor, do that first. 3/4 -inch solid hardwood needs to be installed with nails over plywood, on or above grade in your home, not. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for specifics. Here’s a quick overview of the installation: Run the flooring along the length of the room with an expansion gap at the perimeter-solid hardwood expands and contracts. Stagger the joints at least -inches and avoid H joints, in other words don’t allow the joints to line up unless there are at least two rows between them. It’s smart to calculate the width of the last two row too. If it will be less that -inch, consider cutting the first row by half. Before you get started, determine how much flooring you’ll need by multiplying the length times width of the room to get the square footage. Add about 10% extra for any warped or damaged boards. When you have your flooring, let it acclimate to the room temperature and humidity for at least 72 hours. Typically, you remove the flooring from the boxes and stack it in the room. This is a good time to check for any warped or defective boards. Hold onto them-you can use the bad pieces to help pry the last row in the place. Also you might be able to cut off the damaged parts and use the good pieces for your install. When the flooring has acclimated, pick out the straightest boards for the first two rows. Hold the first board on the starting line you snipped during prep, groove side toward the wall. Set spacers for the expansion gap-typically 3/4 inches. Face nail about 1/2 inch from the tongue side, starting about 3 inches from the ends, and generally every 6 inches in between. We advise to use an air nail gun, but drill pilot holes if you’re using a hammer and nail set. Tap the next piece in place in place with tapping block and mallet, and continue face nailing. You can fill nail holed with matching floor putty later. When you get to the end, cut the board to fit. Remember to account for the expansion gap. Place the board face up, and cut with a flooring blade then install. Now blind nail at a 45 degree angle every six inches. If using a hammer and nails be sure to drill pilot holes. To start the second row, push the groove onto the tongue of the first row and tap the boards together with a tapping block. Keep installing the next few rows this way, staggering the joints at least 6 inches. It’s a little slow now, but the installation will pick up once you have enough room to use a flooring nailer. To use the flooring nailer hold it against the flooring tongue, and hit it with a hammer, and hit it again and again, spacing the nails. continue installing the rest of the floor, staggering the joints and maintaining the expansion gaps. Mix boards from different boxes so you don’t have patched of similar color or grains. Cut around any obstructions like vents or columns. When you get to the last few rows where the flooring nailer won’t fit, blind nail where you can. For the last two rows you’ll have to face nail along the tongue side. To fit the very last row, cut the pieces, keeping in mind the expansion gap. Use a pull pull bar to wedge the pieces in place and then face nail it. If the last strip will be less than 1 inch wide, glue it to the previous row. Finish up by cutting the excess underlayment, filling nail holes with wood putty and reattaching the baseboards and shoe moulding. Attach the trim to the wall, not the floor then add the transitions and it’s finished. Solid hardwood definitely adds a rich look to your house.